Wednesday, October 29, 2025

Construction Update #56 - RGS 22, RGS 41 & Scenery around Lizard Head

RGS #22

A couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to pick up a second run (1998) P-B-L RGS #22 for under $800.00.  Here are a few photos of the #22 "posed" on the layout (It still needs to have a sound decoder installed).  It needs a couple of very minor repairs but otherwise it's just about perfect.  Originally a unpainted model, it has very nice paint and weathering.  The previous owner bought it new and never ran it.

THE SUMMIT TUNNEL (LIZARD HEAD)

THE LIZARD HEAD SECTION HOUSE

MATTERHORN

WILSON

PLACERVILLE

Adam's Country Gas Station

Back in August (Construction Update #48) I included a photo of the small miner's cabin my 13 year old grandson Adam was building.  Here's the finished model.  It will become nice little non prototypical addition to my Lizard Head scene.

I also decided to add this small house to the Lizard Head scene (Another non prototypical addition).  The house came off Bruce Hanley's old layout.

Here is the overall scene.  Trees are starting to dot the hillsides; more are needed.

The stock Pens.  All the trees in this  photo came off Bruce Hanley's old layout.  I trimmed them up a and added some dark green ground foam

 As winter approaches, I spend less time in the train room.  It's expensive to heat the room (a 3-car converted garage) and I need to spend an entire day working on the layout to justify the cost.  Instead, I normally spend most of my modeling time in my workroom (spare bedroom).  

RGS #41 - A Winter Time Project

My model started life on the late Brian Ellerby's Copper River & Yukon as CR&Y #31.  It was sold following Brian's death and I ran across it in pieces, without a box, late last year (2024).  I compared the model to some photographs and came to the conclusion it was actually a late run P-B-L model of RGS #41; just what I needed since I already had a model of #40 and #42.

Here is the model on my work desk.  I can probably do most of the reassembly myself including the DCC/Sound install.  Fortunately, I have a friend who can help me out with with the assembly and reattaching (soldering) some of the small details.  Anyone have a spare box for a P-B-L RGS #41 laying around?


As always, your comments, suggestions and questions are welcome

sdepolo@outlook.com 

Tuesday, October 14, 2025

Construction Update #55 - Weathering Locomotives & Rolling Stock With Powdered Pigments

 

RGS K-27 #455 

My RGS "pre wreck" version of the #455 is a factory painted brass model from P-B-L.  A Tsunami2 sound decoder and TCS keep alive were installed right after I got it.  Shown below, it ran around the layout for about two years with it's unrealistic glossy factory paint; great for a display model but not very realistic for an operating model railroad.


Since I was going to use powdered pigments for the weathering, the first thing I did was flatten the glossy finish.  The, powdered pigments won't stick to a gloss finish.  The windows were masked off and the model was sprayed with Tamiya TS-80 clear flat.  I have tried most of the flat finishes and it is my opinion that the Tamyia TS-80 is the best.  The model was then set aside for about 24 hours to insure the flat finish was fully cured.  While I fully disassemble a brass locomotive for painting, I don't for weathering.  When it comes to brass locomotives, I think the less handling, disassembly and assembly, the better.  
 

While waiting for the clear flat to dry, I did a little research.  The 455 was acquired from the D&RGW in 1939 in exchange for a ditcher. It was shopped and entered service in March of 1941.  It was the first RGS locomotive to feature them new "sunrise" logo.  In 1943 is was wrecked in a run away.  Following the wreck it was rebuilt with a "oversize" standard gauge cab and was used by the RGS until the end of operations.  It was scrapped in 1953.  Color pictures of the 455 are difficult to find but there are quite a few Black & Whites. 

 
Here is my set up.  I use artists' dry pigments from Daniel Smith Art Supply (Seattle) and powdered pigments from Bragdon Enterprises along with a selection of  brushes.  The pigments are applied liberally since the color tends to disappear under a sealing clear coat.  Daniel Smith colors burnt umber, raw umber, burnt sienna, graphite and mars black were used along with Bragdon's rust, dark gray, light gray and light brown.
 

Initially, I make a small pile of each color on a piece of styrene.  The colors are first applied individually and and then blended for a final application.
 

Almost finished.  The stack still needs a little work, the boiler needs a few water stains and the tender could use some coal.  It has the look of a used but well maintained locomotive, a look I prefer.  If a more weathered appearance is wanted, another layer of powdered pigments followed by another layer of flat finish could be applied.
 
 

Here is the finished model ready for service with the addition of a spark arrestor and a coal load.  I think the 455 turned out pretty good for my first attempt at weathering a steam locomotive.  Next up is my #463.
 

 Caboose #404

Caboose #404 is another factory painted brass model from P-B-L.  The 404 is another model that ran around on the layout for several years in it's glossy factory paint.  The prototype was built by the RGS in 1902 and served until the end of operations in 1951.  It was the only "long" caboose on the RGS.  It is currently being restored and is expected to operate during 2026.

Unlike the 455, the caboose was disassembled to easily access the under body and trucks.


The factory painted models has the windows installed.  Rather than masking off all the windows I felt it was easier to remove the windows before weathering and reinstall them upon completion.  The windows pop right out but some glue residue is left on the model.  The residue should be scraped off before the model is weathered in order to make sure the replacement windows lay flat against the inside of the window frames.
 

The car body, frame and assembled trucks were then given a coat of Tamyia TS-80 clear flat and set aside to cure for 24 hours.

The wheel sets were painted with Poly Scale Railroad Tie Brown using a micro-brush.  Since they are almost impossible to see on one of these cabooses, I didn't paint the wheel backs or axles.  This is consistent with my general modeling philosophy of "If you can't see it, don't worry about it".

The etched individual boards on brass models can be pretty shallow.  A deep brown panel wash was used to accent this detail.  These washes from mig are primarily used by military modelers to accent panel lines on plastic models.  In the past, I have used them effectively on HO Scale diesels.  After the wash cured, the caboose was given another light coat of Tamiya TS-80 clear flat and set aside to cure overnight.

Powdered pigments were used for some additional weathering; Daniel Smith graphite, black, raw umber, burnt umber and burnt sienna sealed with Tamyia TS-80 flat clear.  Again, I prefer models that while weathered appear to be well maintained.

 

Moose Creek Trees 

Looking for trees?  I saw a reference to Moose Creek trees on a YouTube video.  They looked pretty good and since I needed some smaller trees to blend in with my backdrop, I ordered up a box of 20 3" pine trees for the hillside behind my Lizard Head section house.  At about $1.50 each, they are a bargain.  I have ordered another 20 to fill in the same area plus a few of the larger sizes to see how they look.  They are available on ebay and Etsy.

As always, your comments, suggestions & questions are welcome

sdepolo@outlook.com 


Wednesday, October 1, 2025

Construction Update #54 - Lizard Head Scenery

Basic Ground Cover 

September 28, 2024 

I like to divide the scenery process into steps or phases..  The steps can be separated by hours, days, months or even longer.  The first step, covered in update #52 is basic land forms (foam profiles, cardboard webbing, rosin paper, plaster cloth & Sculptamold).  The second step is basic ground cover.  On my layout, about 95% of the basic ground cover is made up using natural materials.  Of that, about 70-80% is paving sand from Home Depot.  The paving sand, which is crushed rock, is cheap and readily available.  The rest is a combination of dirt from my garden, different shades of decomposed granite sourced locally here in Washington State, and left overs from friends.  A set of sieves is used to separate finer from courser material.  Commercial products from Highball, Scenic Express and Arizona Rock & Mineral make up the balance. 

A little fine ground foam is also used when the basic ground cover is applied.  These include Woodland Scenics blended turf green, blended turf earth, earth, yellow grass and burnt grass.  The idea here is to add just a touch of color.


 Basic ground cover.

 

Getting Started 

The ground cover is glued to exposed Sculptamold with a blend of earth colored latex house paint and white glue.  The ratio is about 75% paint and 25% white glue.   The raw sculptamold is on the left, the paint/glue mixture is in the middle and the basic ground cover consisting of natural rock followed by ground foam is on the right.  After everything is in place I mist a water/alcohol mix over it the basic scenery and then apply diluted matte medium (3/1) to hold everything in place.

 A old rotating floor fan is used to speed up drying.

September 30, 2025
  
The next or third phase includes more ground cover, the addition of a few trees, snow fences and a couple of structures. 



A Few More Details

October 1, 2025 

The next phase - some detail.  A lamp post, figures, a stack of ties and ballast.  The ballast here is a blend of Arizona Rock & Mineral Cumbres and Toltec ballast and Scenic Express gray ballast.  The figures are from Fun & Games.  I like stationary figures.  While "action" figures frozen in photos look OK, I don't like them when viewing the actual scene.  The HO lamp post came from Woodland Scenics.  Not sure where the tie stack came from. 


The Backdrop

I found this picture of Lizard Head on the internet.  I blew it up about 60% with Photoshop and printed it out on 4 sheets of 8.5" x 11" printer paper.  I taped the four pieces together, cut out the sky and cut the bottom to match the existing terrain.  The original plan was to have Walgreens print at 24" x 60" banner and cut it to fit.  Now I'm not so sure.  It looks pretty good in it's current form, without any blending to the foreground and attached to the wall with a couple of strips of double sided tape.

 

Here's an overall picture of the area.  About 10-12 hours were spent over 4 days getting the section house/bunk house scene to this point.  It still needs more trees and some static grass to represent the meadows typical of the pass.

As always, your comments, suggestions and questions are welcome

sdepolo@outlook.com